This walk passes places where the Victorian novelist Anthony Trollope lived, and places referred to in his many novels. It starts at Baker St and ends in Trafalgar Square.

It is a long walk - about 4.3 miles in all. If you are interested in Victorian literature, you should find the readings fascinating. If not, the walk is a splendid one, passing through fine and varied neighbourhoods, grand and royal buildings, and wonderful shopping of all kinds.

If you want to read Trollope for yourself, having taken part in this walk, why not check out the Trollope Reading List. It is a friendly, welcoming and knowledgeable group. This walk is dedicated to my friends on the Trollope Reading List.

Anthony Trollope was born in 1815 at 6 Keppel St, Campden Town near British Museum WC1. In 1882 when staying at 14 Suffolk St SW1 he quarrelled so violently with group of noisy street musicians that he had a stroke and died a few days later in Welbeck St (near Portman Sq). So he was very much a Londoner.

Trollope became one of the most successful, prolific and respected English novelists of the Victorian era. His first major success came with The Warden (1855) — the first of six novels set in the fictional county of "Barsetshire" (often collectively referred to as the Chronicles of Barsetshire), usually dealing with the clergy. The comic masterpiece Barchester Towers (1857) has probably become the best-known of these.

Trollope's other major series, the Palliser novels, concerned itself with politics, with the wealthy, industrious Plantagenet Palliser and his delightfully spontaneous, even richer wife Lady Glencora usually featuring prominently. He also wrote penetrating novels on political, social, gender issues, and conflicts of his day.

Trollope's popularity and critical success diminished in his later years, but he continued to write prolifically, and some of his later novels have acquired a good reputation. In particular, critics generally acknowledge the sweeping satire The Way We Live Now (1875) as his masterpiece. In all, Trollope wrote forty-seven novels, as well as dozens of short stories and a few books on travel.

Anthony Trollope died in London in 1882. His grave stands in Kensal Green Cemetery, near that of his contemporary Wilkie Collins. See my Kensal Green Walk.

References to Trollope and his works in this walk

Marylebone Rd

Location of realities Institute in Is He Popenjoy?

Luxborough St (Northumberland St)

Home of Meager family – Yosef Meager (Revd Joseph Emelius) lodged here after separation from Lizzie Eustace Phineas Redux

Trollope lodged here as junior clerk in GPO

Baker St

The Rowleys stayed at Greggs Hotel in He Knew He Was Right

Home of Mr and Mrs Low Phineas Redux

Mr Slope’s church before he was Bishop Proudie’s chaplain Barchester Towers
“He had been a sizar at Cambridge, and had there conducted himself at any rate successfully, for in due process of time he was an MA, having university pupils under his care. From thence he was transferred to London, and became preacher at a new district church built on the confines of Baker Street. He was in this position when congenial ideas on religious subjects recommended him to Mrs Proudie, and the intercourse had become close and confidential.”

York St

Trollopes lives at 20 1838-40 after AT’s father died

Wyndham St

Lady Anna and her mother lived here before their right to the title had been established in Lady Anna

Bryanston Sq

AT’s sister Cecilia married to John Tilley in church here

Montagu Sq

No 39 plaque AT lived here 1876-80

Portman Sq

London home of earl of Brentford, father of Lady Laura Standish Phineas Finn

De Courcey’s London house Small House at Allington

Greshams town house Dr Thorne

Orchard St

Phineas Finn first spotted garrotters Phineas Finn

Park St

Phineas saved Mr Kennedy from garrotters

Green St

Mildmays London house Phineas Finn

Mr and Mrs Harold Smith at Park Lane end Small House at Allington

Frank Houston’s aunt Rosina Houston Ayala’s Angel

Brook St

London home of Marchesa Baldoni – here Ayala Dormer met Col. Stubbs

Boncassons had house here The Duke’s Children

Home of Lady Linlithgow Eustace Diamonds

Hanover Sq

George Vavasour speculated on murder of his grandfather Can you forgive her?

Burgo Fitzgerald was kind to a prostitute here in spite of his own terrible problems ibid

Great Marlborough St

Phineas lodged in house or Mr & Mrs Bunce Phineas Finn & Redux

George Vavasour’s attorney Mr Scruby has office here Can you forgive her?

Conduit St

Tailor Neefit’s shop Ralph the Heir
“Mr Neefit was a breeches-maker in Conduit St, of such repute that no hunting man could be said to go decently into the hunting field unless decorated by a garment made in Mr Neefit’s establishment. His manipulation of leather was something marvellous, and in his latter years he had added to his original art – an art which had been perfect rather than comprehensive – an exquisite skill in cords, buckskins and the like.... Mr Neefit had actually lived over the shop in Conduit St but was now the proud possessor of a villa residence in Hendon, two miles out in the country beyond Swiss Cottage.”

Bond St

Ralph the Heir has rooms Ralph the Heir

Booby & Moggs boot makers ibid

Harter & Benjamin jewellers The Eustace Diamonds

Bruton St

Town house of Sir Harry Hotspur Sir Harry Hotspur of Humblethwaite

Longstaffes lived here The Way we Live Now Chapter XIII
This conversation took place in the drawing−room of the Longestaffes' family town−house in Bruton Street. It was not by any means a charming house, having but few of those luxuries and elegancies which have been added of late years to newly−built London residences. It was gloomy and inconvenient, with large drawing−rooms, bad bedrooms, and very little accommodation for servants. But it was the old family town−house, having been inhabited by three or four generations of Longestaffes, and did not savour of that radical newness which prevails, and which was peculiarly distasteful to Mr Longestaffe. Queen's Gate and the quarters around were, according to Mr Longestaffe, devoted to opulent tradesmen. Even Belgrave Square, though its aristocratic properties must be admitted, still smelt of the mortar. Many of those living there and thereabouts had never possessed in their families real family town−houses. The old streets lying between Piccadilly and Oxford Street, one or two well−known localities to the south and north of these boundaries, were the proper sites for these habitations. When Lady Pomona, instigated by some friend of high rank but questionable taste, had once suggested a change to Eaton Square, Mr Longestaffe had at once snubbed his wife. If Bruton Street wasn't good enough for her and the girls then they might remain at Caversham. The threat of remaining at Caversham had been often made, for Mr Longestaffe, proud as he was of his town−house, was, from year to year, very anxious to save the expense of the annual migration. The girls' dresses and the girls' horses, his wife's carriage and his own brougham, his dull London dinner−parties, and the one ball which it was always necessary that Lady Pomona should give, made him look forward to the end of July, with more dread than to any other period. It was then that he began to know what that year's season would cost him. But he had never yet been able to keep his family in the country during the entire year. The girls, who as yet knew nothing of the Continent beyond Paris, had signified their willingness to be taken about Germany and Italy for twelve months, but had shown by every means in their power that they would mutiny against any intention on their father's part to keep them at Caversham during the London season.

Lady Lufton’s town house Framley Parsonage

Bishop Proudie’s London house Barchester Towers

Berkeley Sq

Lady Baldock lived here Phineas Finn

Sir Hugh Clavering’s town house The Claverings

The Houghton residence in Is he Popenjoy?

Lord Nidderdale lived here at house of his father Marquis of Auld Reekie The Way we live now

Hill St

Universe Club may have been here, west of Chesterfield Hill. Phineas Finn quarrelled with Mr Bonteen shortly before he was murdered Phineas Redux

Curzon St

Louis Trevelyan’s home He knew he was right
“As it was time for him to have his leave of absence, he and sundry of the girls went to England with Mr Trevelyan, and the marriage was celebrated in London by the Rev Oliphant Outhouse of St Diddulph in the East who had married Rowley’s sister. Then a small house was taken and furnished in Curzon St Mayfair, and the Rowleys went back to their seat of government leaving Nora, the second girl, in charge of her elder sister.... For nearly two years this little household in Curzon St went on well, or if anything was the matter no one outside was made aware of it. And there was a baby, a boy, a young Louis, and a baby in such a household is apt to make things go on sweetly.”

Half Moon St

Lizzie Eustace lodged here after being turned out by Mrs Bonteen when her supposed husband had been found to be Mr Bonteen’s murdered Phineas Redux

Clarges St

Lord Fawn took this route from the Universe Club to Piccadilly and then to his lodgings in Victoria St.  At the N end of Clarges St he saw someone hurrying by whom he later thought to be Phineas Finn. Phineas Finn

Lady Ongar desired to stay here after Lord Ongar’s death in Florence The Claverings chapter 5
Harry said nothing, but went on reading. "I shall only want two sitting-rooms and two bedrooms--one for myself and one for Clara--and should like to have them somewhere near Piccadilly--in Clarges street, or about there. You can write me a line, or send me a message to the Hotel Bristol, at Paris. If anything fails, so that I should not hear, I shall go to the Palace Hotel; and, in that case, should telegraph for rooms from Paris."

Bolton St

Lady Ongar’s lodgings The Claverings

Hay Hill

Passage opposite bottom of Hay Hill was where Mr Bonteen’s body found Phineas Redux

St James’s St

George Hotspur’s lodgings Sir Harry Hotspur of Humblethwaite

Mr Monk lived here Phineas Finn

Lord Chilton dines at Mooney’s Restaurant Phineas Redux

The Bear Garden is near here The Way we live now; The Duke’s Children

Carlton Gardens

Altringham House, home of Earl of Altringham Sir Harry Hotspur of Humblethwaite

Carlton House Terrace

Town house of Duke of Omnium The Prime Minister [Phineas Redux Carlton Gardens]

Suffolk St

John Grey’s lodgings, where George Vavasour tried to kill him Can you forgive her?

No 14 – Gardants Hotel – AT stayed here in his later years

Eleanor Arabin and Johnny Eames stayed at a quiet hotel near here on their way back from the continent Last Chronicle of Barset

Dean Lovelace stayed here Is He Popenjoy?
This was not in itself satisfactory; but such as it was, it did for a time make Lord George believe that Popenjoy was Popenjoy. It was certainly true of him that he wished Popenjoy to be Popenjoy. No personal longing for the title or property made him in his heart disloyal to his brother or his family. And then the trouble and expense and anxieties of such a contest were so terrible to his imagination, that he rejoiced when he thought that they might be avoided. But there was the Dean. The Dean must be satisfied as well as he, and he felt that the Dean would not be satisfied. According to agreement he sent a copy of his brother's letter down to the Dean, and added the assurance of his own belief that the marriage had been a marriage, that the heir was an heir, and that further steps would be useless. It need hardly be said that the Dean was not satisfied. Before dinner on the following day the Dean was in Minister Court. "Oh, papa," exclaimed Mary, "I am so glad to see you." Could it be anything about Captain De Baron that had brought him up? If so, of course she would tell him everything. "What brought you up so suddenly? Why didn't you write? George is at the club, I suppose." George was really in Berkeley Square at that moment. "Oh, yes; he will be home to dinner. Is there anything wrong at Manor Cross, papa?" Her father was so pleasant in his manner to her, that she perceived at once that he had not come up in reference to Captain De Baron. No complaint of her behaviour on that score had as yet reached him. "Where's your portmanteau, papa?" "I've got a bed at the hotel in Suffolk Street. I shall only be here one night, or at the most two; and as I had to come suddenly I wouldn't trouble you." "Oh, papa, that's very bad of you."

Paul Montague had lodgings here The Way we live now

A bonus walk lasting about an hour. It's for when you have time for a stroll and find yourself in the vicinity of Holborn or Covent Garden.

We start at Holborn Underground on the Central and Piccadilly Lines in Zone 1. After acending the long escalator, go straight through the barriers out to Kingsway. Turn right and cross over High Holborn to see the 1950's tram underpass which unaccountably remains in Southampton Row. Then cross over and take a seat in the Sicilian Ave precinct (pictured) whilst I tell you all about Holborn and Covent Garden.

There's lots of history on this walk, but nothing heavy. Just snippets about the origins of the present look and feel of the place mainly dating back to the 1600's. After the chat we continue down Kingsway and turn right into Great Queen St, names after James I's queen, Anne of Denmark. You can visit the enormous imposing Freemasons' Hall where there are public exhibitions associated with the Masons. You can also see the site where the Football Association was founded and where they argued about the rules. Plus ca change.

Drury Lane signals the start of Theatreland and then Covent Garden. The highly fashionable houses of the early 1600's gave way to rowdy, brawling and seedy streets as the aristocrats moved West.

Bow Street is the heart of the walk. Here we see the old Bow Street Magistrates Court, recently closed. Here the Bow Street Runners, forebears of every police force in the world took over from the early volunteer 'thief takers.' Here a blind magistrate claimed to be able to distinguish up to 3,000 different miscreants by the sound of their voices alone. Here Oscar Wilde was arraigned for gross indecency, and an 89 year old Bertrand Russel with other supporters of CND was bound over to keep the peace in the 1960's. Fascinating history.

Then the highlight of the stroll if you are lucky - a visit to the Royal Opera House and the old Floral Hall. A refurbished gem of a place not to be missed. Try and get there between 10am and 3pm Monday - Saturday to gain admittance. The Paul Hamlyn Hall as it is know known (that's corporate sponsorship for you) is a must-see.

Finally you can cross the Covent Garden Piazza with its street entertainers, market stalls, eating places and other attractions to St Paul's Church. The walk finishes with a stroll along Floral Street and its shishi fashion shops and tiny alleys and courtyards. From Long Acre you can either brave the deep lifts down to Covent Garden Underground (Piccadilly Line Zone 1) or spend a few minutes retracing your steps back to Holborn.

Another classy riverside walk which covers part of the Oxford & Cambridge Boat Race course but in the reverse direction. The walk starts at Hammersmith Underground (District & Circle Lines) or Hammersmith (Hammersmith & City Line). You can also reach the start point in the Broadway shopping centre on any bus passing through or terminating at Hammersmith Bus Station which is located over the Underground. The start is in Zone 1 but we end our walk at Barnes Bridge in Zone 3 so a Zone 1 - 3 Travelcard is advisable.

Aiming for the church beside Hammersmith Broadway, we walk down Queen Caroline St towards the river Thames and the Riverside Studios. The Broadway is a busy roundabout under the flyover taking traffic to the West and South West so please pay careful attention to the instructions, and DO NOT cross anywhere other than using the pedestrian crossings or the underpass.

Very shortly the busy bustle of Hammersmith Broadway fades away, and we can sit on a bench by the river adjacent to the iconic Hammersmith Bridge, the first suspension bridge across the Thames. The way is easy to find, as the Thames Path is clearly marked so you should have no difficulty ober the 2 1/2 miles or so, and there is little if any traffic throughout.

There are many fine pubs along the first section, and you will hear me talk about one Fuller's ale I try at the Dove. The walk passes the Fuller's Brewery. We also pass many boat houses belonging to the various clubs dedicated to skulling or sailing.

Kelmscott House is interesting because it was the London home of William Morris. If you want to visit the William Morris Society, you should take the walk on a Thursday or Saturday afternoon (open 2 - 5 pm). The adjacent coach house is the site of the very first telegraph. Sir Francis Ronalds managed to pass an electrical current through 8 miles of cable encased in glass tubing. The British Admiralty were unimpressed and did not pursue the idea.

You can read more about Fuller's ales by clicking on the Fuller's home page.

The walk uses the Thames Path, various quiet riverside roads, and two extensive open parks. There are wonderful (and expensive) houses much of the way, and continuous views of the river except where private gardens give glimpses through railing beside Chiswick Eyot. Eventually we arrive at the Bandstand and climb the steps to the pedestrian walkway leading over Barnes Bridge. This crosses the river straight onto Platform 1 with 4 trains an hour to Clapham Junction and Waterloo.

Is this the last audio London Walk? If so, I have saved one of the very best for last. The starting point is the Tower of London. You can reach it on the District & Circle to Tower Hill (zone 1) or the Docklands Light Railway to Tower Gateway. The walk is about 3.7 miles. The finishing point is by the tower of Big Ben opposite Westminster Underground on the Jubilee Line (zone 1).

What is so good about this walk? Firstly, the views. Spectacular throughout its length. From the Tower of London we use the riverside on the north side of the Thames to look back at Tower Bridge. Click here for bridge opening times - if you can arrange clear weather and start your walk as the bascules lift you will enjoy this walk all the more.

The second bridge we hear about is London Bridge. The original was sold to the US. The third is Cannon Street where we pass underneath the railway terminus. Next we cross the river by Southwark Bridge and pass Shakespeare's Globe and the Tate Modern. Opposite the old bankside Power Station is the Millennium Bridge that oscillated when first opened, and was closed for almost 2 years for dampening. It is known affectionately to Londoners as the Wobbly Bridge, but at night as the Blade of Light.

On the north bank we pass under Blackfriars railway and road bridges before crossing back to the South Bank as far as the National Theatre. Waterloo Bridge offers some of the best views of London in both directions and is not to be missed. After passing through Victoria Embankment Gardens with its armillory sphere dedicated to Richard D'Oyly Carte and the strange bust of Sir Srthur Sullivan with a semi naked woman attempting to climb up it, we reach Hungerford Bridge. Once the ugliest of all bridges, two spectacular walkways have been constructed on either side. They are now called the Golden Jubilee bridges. We cross over the river once again and continue past the London Eye and the London Aquarium.

Our last bridge is Westminster where the walk finishes.

This walk starts near Brixton Underground (Victoria Line Zone 2). It is part of a walk originally suggested to me by Lambeth Council. brixton is at the heart of Lambeth. Here is the famous Brixton Market with its Afro Caribbean flavour, its eating places and food from many parts of the world, and its unique and noisy cosmopolitan atmosphere.

At the start of the walk is the Ritzy Cinema, the Tate Library named after the sugar magnate of Tate & Lyle fame, Lambeth Town Hall, the famous Fridge music venue, St Matthew's Church, one of 4 built in the 'Waterloo' style, the extraordinary Budd Monument (pictured with Lambeth Town Hall in nthe background) and much more.

The Sharpeville Monument commemorates lives lost at the 1960 massacre in South Africa.

Hear the soundscape as I walk you throught the market area. Admire the Walton Lodge Sanitary Steam Laundry, founded in 1880 and still going strong. nearby admire a plaque dedicated to the life of a totter and squatter who totted and squatted between 1979 and 1989. Apparently, so it says, he was 'much loved.'

Walk along Railton Road, the front line of the Brixton riots of 1981 when 145 buildings were burnt and many vehicles destroyed. I tell you all about the history of that troubled time in London's race relations, now mercifully past as you can see from the new buildings and regeneration going on all over the area.

We then pass into a gem of a park. Brockwell Park was originally the grounds of a great mansion, bought by the London County Council for the use of the local community as a green space in 1891. As we walk down towards the amazing renovated Lido we hear about the history of brixton, its multi ethnic flavour, its immigrants from the Caribbean from 1948 on, and its present day character.

In the Park is a gem. Lambeth's best kept secret - the Walled Garden. Little Ben is a clock that had to be wound once a week, and was the gift of the local MP for Norwood. A previous member of parliament had a heart attack and died during the opening of the park in 1892.

The walk ends at Herne Hill main line station, which is one stop south from Brixton on the line that runs into Victoria or Blackfriars. Zone 1/2 Travelcards are valid on mainline trains, and there is a frequent and reliable service into central London from this point. Alternatively you can walk back to Brixton along Railton Road, making the walk a circular one.

This is the second Soho walk I have done. The first walk proved to be the most popular of all the London Walks in terms of the number of downloads. This walk follows a different route, and focuses on the history of this cosmopolitan area rather than its present day appearance. Surprisingly there is a great deal of history as you will discover, starting with the laying out of the various streets in the 17th and 18th centuries to the events of more modern times.

The starting point is Tottenham Court Road Underground station (Zone 1 - Central and Northern lines). We leave by exit 1, turn right into Oxford Street and then right down Charing Cross Road beside Centre Point. From this noisy and busy intersection we quickly leave the bustle and reach the relative calm of Soho Square. So-ho! was a hunting cry - Soho Fields became the northern part of a royal park extending up from Whitehall Palace and the king's royal mews on the site of the present Trafalgar Square.

Soho is a cosmopolitan mix of restaurants, pubs, food outlets, offices and sex shops cheek by jowl. The highlight of this walk is Chinatown in Gerrard Street and the surrounding area. The history of this area is similar to many other streets: the substantial houses built here between 1670 and 1685 boasted as one occupier no less than the 1st Duke of Devonshire. By the mid 18th century these had given way to coffee houses and taverns. At number 44 - currently my favourite Chinese supermarket the Loon Fung - John Dryden resided in 1687. From the 1950's a Chinese settlement grew up, and now the ceremonial gateways at each end of the street are recognition of the status of the Chinese community in this area.

The other highlight of this walk is Theatreland. We weave through the area around Shaftesbury Avenue where so many theatres are located, including the famous Palace on Cambridge Circus, home of a number of long-running musicals.

After leaving Theatreland, we walk up Wardour St, known for its film companies, restaurants and clubs. We then cross busy Oxford Street into the garment and soft furnishings area around Berners Street and finish our walk down Tottenham Court Road again to Goodge Street Underground (Northern Line Zone 1).

This fascinating glimpse of the seat of government and the church starts at the foot of the tower of Big Ben as the clock chimes the hour. To get here, take the Jubilee Line to Westminster (Zone 1) and cross the road as you exit the Underground station.

We start with a history of Westminster Palace and Westminster Hall, and then walk south down Parliament Square with the Houses of Parliament on our left hand side. Opposite is the small church of St Margaret's which sits incongruously in the shadow of Westminster Abbey. The Jewel Tower dates back to the 14th Century and can be visited. Continuing down Millbank past Old Palace Yard we turn into Smith Square with its concert hall in the former church building and continue into the dvision bell area with predominantly 18th century terraced houses, much sought after by politicians.

In Cowley St we admire the headquarters of the Liberal Democrats then into Dean's Yard. This is a wonderful space flanked by buildings of various ages. On the East is Westminster School whose premises can be traced to the 11th Century in part. We leave Dean's Yard into The Sanctuary by the West end of Westminster Abbey. From there, we cross to the Methodist Central Hall and stroll along the wonderful Queen Anne's Gate.

This ancient close with Cockpit Steps at one end and Broadway at the other leads out by 55 Broadway, art deco offices of London Underground built over St James Park tube, then New Scotland Yard belonging to the Metropolitan Police. Crossing busy Victoria St we walk down the street market in Strutton Ground and then cross Greycoat Place leading to Vincent Square where there are flower shows in the Old and New Horticultural Halls belonging to the Royal Horticultural Society.

Crossing Rochester Row by the old almshouses near St Stephen's CHurch, we enter Westminster Cathedral, seat of the Roman Catholic archbishop. As we enter to admire the 100 different types and colours of marble decorating the interior of this red brick building, there is a mass taking place and we can hear the sermon in the background.

The walk ends at Victoria Station (Zone 1) Victoria Line, District, Circle, and Mainline railways and buses to various parts of London.

Walking through London is a delight at any time. Combine a stroll with some of the capital's finest buildings, most fashionable shops, grand facades, processional routes, history, royalty and life and you have a winner every time. This walk should only take about an hour. It starts at Trafalgar Square and finishes at Piccadilly Circus not far away.

You can reach Trafalgar Square by taking the Bakerloo or Northern Lines to Charing Cross. Take the exit marked Trafalgar Square and start by Nelson's Column. The walk begins by crossing to Admiralty Arch and strolling down The Mall to the Duke of Your's Steps on the right. From this point we enter St James's. We pass London's great clubs such as the Reform. We see some of the best Nash architecture, like the two magnificent Carlton House terraces.

We pass down Pall Mall to St James's Palace, built out of red brick by Henry VIII and home of the late Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. In St James's St we admire some of London's finest and most venerable shops, such as Berry Bros and Rudd, Lock's Hatters and Lobb - all survivors of the 18th century. Beside Berry Bros is an archway leading to London's smallest square, pictured on the right. A little gem, sel;dom found by the tourists passing by the Palace.

A much more grand and bigger square is St James's, home of courtiers and prime ministers. From this point we walk up to Jermyn St where well heeled men can equip themselves with clothing and accessories at suitably elevated prices. You can also enjoy being pampered with one of the world's most expensive shaves.

The walk finally passes along Piccadilly, named after a brand of stiff collar worn at court, and sold by a certain tailor who made a fortune out of the fashion, as well as having the entire street named after his collars. We finish amidst the bright lights and bustle of Piccadilly Circus where you can take the Piccadilly Line or Bakerloo Line (zone 1) to your starting point.